If you’re talking about excellence in wine, you’re talking about Barolo - but what makes them so good? For me it’s the near impossible amount of complexity that each bottle somehow manages to achieve, coupled with the symphonic-like nature of how all those pieces intermingle. The 2015 Massimo Rattalino Trentaquattro is everything and more that you can expect from Barolo. Lifted rose petals and sour cherries on a thin ribbon of hot tar or gravelly road. Dried cranberry and currant set against woody tree-bark and spice box. Campfire embers and meaty decay. All in perfect step. On the palate the acidity finds an accomplice in the tannin structure making for a penetrating wine that builds and builds. An ethereal and other-worldly wine. If you’re on the fence about Barolo - let this be your sign to get off it. 

Barbaresco is widely regarded as more approachable than it’s brash, ballsy sibling, Barolo. There’s still acid and tannin to spare here, but it’s softly aromatic and harmoniously put together. The complexity and depth of flavour is second to none, with heady aromas of roses and violets, alongside sweet, exotic spices and a sprinkling of dusty cocoa. It’s that bit more versatile than Barolo, suited to big, rich stews as much as it is to delicate game and truffle dishes. It’ll age miraculously well, though there’s no need for Barolo’s 20-odd years before opening. This one is absolutely delightful now after a spin in the decanter to stretch it’s legs a little, but will sit happily in the cellar for well over a decade.