This strikes the fresh jam cord perfectly (and it's a hard chord to play); the trick is to find developed fruit flavours without falling into overly unctuous and too-ripe territory. When winemakers get it right the results are outstanding - lucky for you, this is one such wine. Spiced, herbacious, and delivering a long fantail finish that ties the wine neatly together and has you (almost unconsciously) lifting the glass back to your lips. I will tell you to cellar this (and you will be rewarded if you do) but it's hypocritical of me, because I've already consumed my modest allocation.